Hello everyone im new to the forum. I have recently acquired a ww1 German T-gewehr. Ive had the gun for maybe a year now and would actually like to try shooting it. I have one original 13.2 TUF cartridge with it but I would hate to shoot vintage ammo. Im trying to locate possible reloads for the T-gewehr but in my long search I have come up empty handed. Would any of you find Gents be able to point me in the right direction for reloads for 13.2 TUF? …Cheers
Welcome here Rail-Gun, to start with we need to say that the caliber designation is 13mm.
There are newly made cases and reloading dies for the 13x92SR.
I think the experts here will tell soon.
One can also make workable 13mm TuF cases from .50 czl BMG, by headspacing the shouldrr ratherthanthe Semi rim ofthe original. Case will still extract without any problems
ALSO, .50 CAL projectiles can be sleeved with K&S brass tube .500 ID, .528 OD, which is listed as 17/32inch tube OD.
I cut the tube sufficient to reach from the cannelure to overlap the boat tail and base…I made a small press die to shape the tube around the boat tail and over the rounded base, to lock the sleeve in place.
They work quite well, with .50cal ADI . Cases and either CCI or RWS .50 cal Primers…powder can vary from 100 to 200 grains depending on type and velocity required.
I am looking to make CNC brass 13mm bullets as well to make an around 800 grain bullet…my .50 cal M33 CNC weighout at 748 grains close enough to the steel core originals for loading purposes.
Good shooting…but pad your jacket well… they have a vicious recoil ; five shots in Half an hour is a bearable rate… also CBE bullet moulds have a .50 cal ( .510) 900 grain cast lead bullet to correct profile. You can sleeve these as well to reduce leading.
Thank you so much for all this information but unfortunately I lack all the equipment and experience to make my own rounds. Does anyone make any that one can purchase?
I am also a T Gewehr owner…I am afraid however that I have no intention of firing it. I would be interested in learning the serial # of your gun?
Serial number 215
I will post tomorrow pics from cases, which where made a while ago.
The adress was :http://www.huelsen-horneber.de/index_de.html
At moment they are not anymore on his list, but you can ask, as he proposes making cases from 5000 to 50000 pieces.
So its at least a point to ask, if he has some left or if he is willing to make again a batch.He makes only empty xases, no ammo!
The last ones where sold trough Waffen-Dorfner in Austria, who loaded finally the cases with own made bullets, but stopped about liability, I think.
But maybe also, some empty cases are left…
The german distributor was Waffen-Johannsen…
Apologies for the delay in responding….”215” is a low number, is that the short (86cm) barrel length version?
Here the pic from the Horneber cases,
Please note the correct headstamp used by Horneber: 13 x 92 R
Germany named the caliber 13 mm (land-to-land as usual at the time), not 13.2 mm.
Its a rimmed case (rim 1 mm wide), not semi-rimmed (SR or HR for Halbrand).
Jochem, just to fully understand it. Why is the case here not semi-rimmed?
the rim here is very obvious with its 22 mm diameter compared to 20 mm body diameter (above the groove).
A semi-rim, like that of 7.65 Browning or .38 Super Auto, is not obvious to the naked eye. One needs a ruler (to see the air gap) or has to measure rim and body diameter to check for its existence.
here is another rare tuf cardidge on 13,2mm. It should be some experiment with phosphor. But I am not sure. It’s factory inert. No powder no live components
The case shown is obviously made by taking a .50BMG Case, swaging a brass ring into the extractor groove, and also forming the “rim”.
It is a technique already tried some 20 years ago in the USA…nothing new. The case is then sized and trimmed to 92mm and loaded.
I remember the article andnoted the details for further reference. But I found that a normal. 50 casecanbe formed to headspace on the shoulder and fire safely and succesfully without an problems.
I also made correct .525" Projectiles by sleeving a .50 cal M33 projectile (.510") with a K&S brass tube ( .500 ID, .17/32–.531" OD…stretching the tube over the .510 diameter reduces the wall thickness of the tube, to a finished diameter of .525…along with the tube swaged over the boat tail, and crimped into the cannelure, makes a stable “sabot” that won’t strip off.
I made my own bullet sleeving dies to use in a 5- ton screw press.
I also make (have made) correct profile solid T18 projectiles in 60/40 Brass by CNC.
The solid brass approximates the original steel-cored T18 in mass as well , so the ballistics are approximately equal ( do the same with my CNC 8mm Mle.1886 Balle D).
I have not fired the T18 for some years ( lack of suitable range) but now have access to a country property with good backstops ( Badlands type country),
So will start loading and shooting again…with good shoulder padding and ear protection…and a chronograph…
Here is a drawing from the book Military cartridges Part 1
From W. de Hek and J. Lenselink.
Hello Doc AV,
any chance to get some drawings or something like that of your CNC solid projectiles?
I recently bought a T-Gewehr in good shape and want to bring it back shooting ;)
Do you use special die sets like the one made by CH4D?
Thanks for any kind of support.
Greetings from Germany