233 AND 8mm Mauser


#1


Singapore? any info ? F1 and green primer annalus?

On this Portuguese 7.92x57 is the 45 the date? unfamiliar with this headstamp!


#2

On your Singapore .223 round, “FI” is a date code. There has been questions before on this Forum about this code, and I, personally, am confused about whether this alphabetical code starts with the letter “A” or with the letter “B”, co I am not going to attempt to fix a date to it. The green seal is normal for a ball round.

Your 8mm Mauser round was made at F


#3

Terry (and any others it applies to)–I hate to keep harping on the subject of the quality of submitted photos on the Forum, but so many of the problems are so easy to fix that there rally is no reason not to do so. In this case it is not the usual complaint about “Too Dark”, but is about orientation. I realize it is difficult to get the headstamps oriented correctly on a scanner, but there is FREE easily obtainable software that allows images to be rotated (as well as for making them lighter or darker) as needed.
Granted the orientation is not as bad a problem as when the image is too dark, but they certainly look nicer on the Forum and are easier to read when they are oriented properly.
FROM THE ADMIN.


#4

Ron - I agree that it “looks nicer” when the pictures are oriented, but it is better that they get posted, especially sharp pictures like these, than worry too much about orientqation, in my opinion. I recently alluded to the fact that while I had promised to get some pictures onto the forum, I was not able to get them to my satisfaction. Well, that was solely because I could not seem to get them oriented properly on my scanner, since I can see the heads once I set them down, and because I have a rather bad shake in my hands now. I am a very, very impatient person (certainly not a boast, as it is a grievous fault of mine) and just abandoned the project. The pictures did NOT get posted.

I just can’t see orientation as a problem when there ARE, indeed, some poor pictures posted that are hard to read at all due to exposure.

Again, just my own opinion. Not arguing the fact that if everything was done perfectly, the Forum would look nicer.


#5

John–I agree that if it is a choice of “No Picture” or “Crooked Picture”, I will opt for the “Crooked Picture”. But, as I said above, it is so easy to fix a crooked picture, that there is is really no rason why we can’t have both a “A Picture” and a “Stright Picture”. In your case, John, since, as you have said many times,you just don’t understand computers, if you send me your “Crooked” scans, I will rotate them for you and send them back. It is easiest if you do one headstamp at a time, but if you scan severial at once leave about 1 inch between them so I can crop each one seperatly and rotate it.


#6

Dave Hughes’ reference book on known .223 cartridges (and 5.56) shows the letter code used byCIS as starting with “B” = 2 and so on. According to his information, 0=0 and 1=1 and there is no “A”. This reference was published in 1991, so it is entirely possible that this code has change since then.

AKMS


#7

To shed a little light on the CIS/Sinapore system of date codes the following information can be found in the works of both Ron Fuchs and the late Dave
Hughes. CIS uses a number value for letters of the alphabet. With a couple of exceptions this is still in effect today.

Using the H/S: FI “F” is 6th letter in alphabet, “I” is 9th letter in alphabet,
“FI” works to 69 or 1969.

1970 thru 1979 dates run from “GA” thru “GI”

1980 thru 1989 dates run from “HO” thru “HJ”

1990 thru 1999 dates run from “JO” thru “JJ”


#8

Yes gentlemen, I have all the goodies to present the picture in the correct perspective and will endeavor to do so in the future.
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. Terry.