37mm


#1

Hello all, wither once again! I don’t get on the PC much in the summer. I acquired an old home made cartridge board with some sectioned rounds. The thing looks like it spent the last 20 years in a dirty furnace room. It contained nothing rare or unusual. My question is I have a 37mm round [sectioned], the case length is a 142mm whit half a H/S which reads MM MK III A2 S.C. 1941, And around the primer M23A1 1941. I also have the projectile, which Im not sure is quite right as it is painted TP blue. I will attach a pic tomorrow.

Thanks!
Steve


#2

The most likely candidate is the 37x145R for the M4 and M10 aircraft guns, as used in the P-39 Airacobra (and later the P-63 Kingcobra).

There’s a steel-cased drill round shown below (brass was more common) from my Ammo Photo Gallery:


#3

Well that answers my question in short order!

Thanks Tony!


#4

I there any powder fake or otherwise I can use in the sectioned case to finish up restoration and make it look legit?


#5

I’ve heard that some people use the kind of imitation coal made for model railways, but I’ve never done that myself.


#6

Steve–To simulate fine ball powder I use black aquarium sand from a pet supply store for sectioned rounds. This also works well when you want to simulate the powder with an inert substance after pulling a round down and reassembling it. In this case I use red or yellow sand so no one in the future will mistake it for real powder. You can use the amount needed to approximate the original powder weight to give the cartridge that correct “Loaded” feel. For sectioned cartridges, put a little white glue, such as Elmer’s Glue, on either the actual original powder or any inert powder substitute, to hold it in place. After it drys you can barely see the glue. Depending on the powder, you might want to add a few drops of water to thin the glue out.


#7

Thanks for the help guys! I just wanted to make sure the powder for the 37mm looked as “original” as possible. I have already finished the 20x110 and it looks good, compared to the shape I received it in.


#8

Steve

Black sand is good, as Ron suggested. What I use is something I get for free, every spring. When I clean out my rain gutters they always have some very fine, black “grains” of stuff that has washed off from the asphalt shingles over the winter. I collect it, sift it for uniformity using mama’s kitchen strainer, and wash it to remove the dust. Works and looks great!

Where the heck have you been? Missed you.

Ray


#9

I don’t get on the pc very much in the summer, spend all day outside in the garden! Great Idea on the shingle shavings!


#10

The food put through the strainer tastes much more interesting afterwards, too! ;-)

The size of the grains you use does of course depend on the size of the cartridge. Cannon cartridges can be expected to use much larger-grained propellant than small arms.


#11

facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= … =1&theater


#12


#13

Above pic is how the board looked when I got it.


#14

Almost finished…


#15

A nice board!


#16

Thanks Tony!


#17

Carbon powder is sold in various sizes for many uses. It is not expensive. I have seen Spaghetti used for British and German powder strands and chopped for Soviet .

My old buddy and sectioner , Wayne Markov, used the actual powder sealed with plastic. So far it has lasted pretty well.


#18

I often use real powder if I have the correct size available. I mix it with white Elmers Glue which dries clear and you can hardly tell that it’s glued.

I’ve also used wood pellets, spray painted black, to simulate the big cartridge powders.

ray


#19

I use the real powder if I have it, I ended up using some brass tumbling corn Cobb and painting it black for the 37mm