Anti-Tank ammo


#1

Just finished this one tonight,


#2

Steve, the “Solothurn” should read “Rheinmetall”.


#3

EOD,

Does that apply to both of the rounds or just one? I would like to know a bit more about these rounds.

Thanks
Steve


#4

Steve, they are Rheinmetall developments and commonly missregarded as Solothurn.

The development of the 20x138B started in about 1928 and got adopted in Germany and Russia as Model 1930 for the Rheinmetall AA gun.


#5

EOD,

The 1st one is 20x138 the other 20X105. I think both a finnish.

Steve


#6

Nonetheless the 20x105B and 20x138B are likely always to be popularly known as the “Short Solothurn” and “Long Solothurn” respectively!

A nice display, Steve - these pics show some more for you to look out for:


7.92x57 (for scale), 7.92x87 (replica of Spanish ATR round, reputedly only one rifle made but used in Spanish Civil War), 7.92x107 (Polish Maroszek), 7.92x94 (German Panzerbuchse), 13.2x92SR (German Mauser M1918 - the original anti-tank rifle), 13.9x99B (British .55" Boys), 12.7x108 (Soviet HMG round; used briefly in the Sholoklov ATR), 14.5x114 (Soviet PTRD/PTRS), 15.2x114 (US .60" experimental (tripod-mounted), 12.7x99 (.50 Browning for scale).


12.7x99 (for scale), 20x72RB (Oerlikon SSG), 20x105B (Solothurn S18-100 series), 20x110RB (Oerlikon SSG 36), 20x120 (Madsen), 20x125 (Japanese Type 97), 20x138B (Solothurn S18-1000 and Finnish Lahti L39), 20x144R (Bofors m/40), 20x180R (Carl Gustav m/42 recoilless), 24x139 (Swiss Tb41). N.B. the Madsen, Bofors and Tb41 were mounted on low tripods rather than using bipods plus shoulder stocks.


#7

Thanks Tony!!

Steve


#8

Rather than using cable ties, thin brass wire would probably be better to hold the rounds as it wouldn’t be as visible.


#9

Falcon,

I thought about that… I may have to invest in some brass wire, as I am not happy with the cable ties also.

Steve


#10

Tony, this is why I keep telling. I do not like to use wrong designations for the convenience of people which have their knowledge from TV. (not you of course)


#11

Good luck…I point out to people from time to time that the designation “AK-47” is incorrect (that was only the prototypes) it should be AK or AKM instead, but I don’t expect popular usage to change…


#12

Tony, agreed but as said no bending backwards for ignorants.


#13

[quote=“stevef”]Falcon,

I thought about that… I may have to invest in some brass wire, as I am not happy with the cable ties also.

Steve[/quote]

You could also try monofilament fishing line. It is transparent and takes the colour of whatever it is tied round. Very strong too.

gravelbelly


#14

Could a possible problem with that be that it breaks down with prolonged exposure to UV light? Apparently at the start of each new fishing season you should throw away all your line on your reels from last year and put new on for this reason. I’m not sure if it would eventually weaken enough to beome brittle.


#15

[quote=“stevef”]Falcon,

I thought about that… I may have to invest in some brass wire, as I am not happy with the cable ties also.

Steve[/quote]

Another option is to get Florists wire, it’s around 26 Gauge wire coated in green plastic, in the US it comes in about 100 feet lengths on plastic reels with a cutter as part of the reel. They are cheap too, about US$3 at Walmart.

I’ve used them for doing some of my L1A1/FAL Rifle displays and a friend has used them to hold Power Flasks in position in a display cabinet.


#16

Kevin,

I will give that a try. My Daughters boyfriend is a welder and most of the wire he has is too thick to use.

Steve


#17

Steve


#18

I was inspired by Steve’s efforts in displays and have begun one myself. Here’s my $0.02.
Ultimately ended up with floral wire. Happens to be green. Upside, it can be painted.
Fishin’ line proved to be too loose. For me. The shells went all cockeyed. Guess I don’t know the tieing trick. The wire tightens things up real nice and even. For the symmetry in it. The back side is dangerous, though. Real stickery. Not sure what I’m gonna do about that.
Now that I’ve conjured up all these displays in my mind, if I get 2 or even 3 done, I’ll be surprised. A LOT of work. Hat off to Steve for persevering.


#19

What I do is once the wire is tight and trimed I then put a piece of painters masking tape over the wire ends to stop it poking me or scratching things it’s leaning up against. Works a treat.


#20

Slick Rick,

Don’t blame me for you addiction!!! I don’t need your wife or GF over here looking to bean me with a cast iron pan! LOL

Anyhoo. on the serious side I go to the local hobby store…in my case hobby lobby or michaels and buy their shadow boxes. They are almost always listed at 50% off, so they run about 12 bucks. One word of warning though, the hangers installed on the back WILL NOT support this kind of display. So I nail them through the hole on each side of the hanger to the frame.

Stickery???
Steve