Australian .303 Murray Switch Packets

Two packets of Australian .303 Murray Switch cases.
The cases have two saw cuts on the neck to help crimp onto the fuze.
The (Murray) packet has MF 1942 V11 headstamps.
The 14 2 45 packet has no headstamps.
These packets are hard to find.


Here are a couple of the cartridges, showing the neck mod that Ron described. This facilitates the crimping of the detonator.

Also attached is a pdf document that I found some time ago but unfortunately, I cannot recall the source.

Australian .303 Murray Switch.pdf (403.8 KB)


Great packets, & excellent article.
Thanks Gents

I fully agree with Pete, great images and info! Wery good to know and to have the reference.

It’s very hard on my screen to make out the headstamps you show as they are quite dark on my screen, but the rims seem to be mostly missing on your examples?

My example with the MF 1942 VII HS has a typical rim & the headstamp photos don’t seem to show any ‘trim’ work, so just a problem with the overall view photography ?

Pete - I thought the same, but on reexamination I think the bulk of the rims of those two Switch cartridges simply run off the bottom of the picture. Being a great detective (perhaps that should be spelled “defective”) looking at the heads of the two cartridges pictured next to the profiles, they seem quite normal, with the rim bevel clearly intact, indicating no trimming of the diameter of the case.

I had a couple of Murray Switch cases when I took a fling at collecting .303, since I am quite found of the .303 Enfields, and the heads were quite normal, as you describe. My cases had a pretty normal OACL and showed no signs of trimming either.

John Moss

Those images came off of the scanner I use to log my collection. These two were added early in the process and I hadn’t quite got the scanner settings dialled in. The rims are stock standard and it is simply an issue with them laying on the scanner glass. HS on the left is MF 1942 VII and the right is MF 1943 G II (the 3 is very lightly struck).

I use the scanner to do the profile images, as I don’t have issues with shadows and background etc, so it really is a time saving exercise. There is a trade-off with quality, as is evident here but it suites my needs. Not sure why they are dark though, they show quite clearly for me.

Thanks Mayhem, thought the scanner light wrapping around the head might be the problem with the missing rims.
It it works for you, that’s all that’s important.

Re the dark photos on my screen. Just as an exercise I’ve lightened yours ( & cut res down to 400 dpi on both but kept the size unchanged) so I can easily see it on my screen & here it is next to your original.
You’ll notice the width of the cartridge bodies has narrowed (light wrap-around again) but how do the lightened headstamps read when compared to your originals on your screen?
As I said this is just a exercise as I’ve been wondering about as your photos along with some other folks whose are also sometimes dark on my screen. Thanks for you help with this.
MurraySwitchCartridges MurraySwitchCartridges%20lighter

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Hi Pete,

It looks like I screwed up!

In formulating my response, I went back to the database I use and also the original images and figured out that I had darkened the image before posting…

I use Adobe Photoshop to edit my images and adjust the colour levels to get the optimal image on my screen and to get the colour as close to that of the round in question. Initially, I did use the auto adjust option but I found that this could make the image too dark. I may have hit the keyboard shortcut in the process, although I’m unsure why I didn’t notice.

Here is the 1st round as viewed in the database, which I have left at actual the actual size that it is viewed on my screen (1050x691):

With regards to the comparison between the image you adjusted and the original, the readability of the HS appear the same to me. They do look a little overexposed though and lighter than the actual rounds themselves.