ID help needed 2

Hi again all. Here are the dimensions for another one.
OAL: 3.605, Rim: .905, Case base: .82, Shoulder: .74, Below lip: >575 lip is distorted, HS: 18 T67 P 8T 76 (2) T76 Base photo is a bit fuzzy. Have to talk to my wife about that. Any help appreciated. Rookie

This is a German 13x92SR AT rifle case made in 1918 by Polte.

1 Like

Think you have a good camera. Your lady has to make correct use of the autofocusfunction. So, if nothing works, read the instructions.
Brass case was made in august 1918 by Polte and contains 67% copper.

The picture was taken by her cell phone. Luckily there are people on the forum who can identify cartridges by the info. given instead of needing perfect pictures. Thank you EOD

Rookie

Rookie, my ID is basing on what I was able to figure from the image and more on the hs data you have provided.

Do not get demotivated by the comments on the images.
The thing is that 99% of the iD work is basing on images and as you have noticed here it is often about headstamps and very faint and small sized markings and tool marks etc.
This simply requires more or less propper images.
It appears there is nothing wrong with your equipment you are using just the focus is way off the area which needs to be shown to us.
Just try to figure how your device is going to focus actualyl on what you want. Should be simple.
So again, do not loose motivation please (critical comments shall inspire us all to make things better)!

Here is my no fail method for shooting headstamps with an autofocus camera. Cut a hole in a piece of cardboard about the same size as the head of the case. Insert the case into the hole and adjust the assembly so that the case head is even with the cardboard. Keep the cardboard and headstamp parallel to the back of the camera when making the shot.

This setup gives the camera only one choice for focusing on. Most cameras will chose the fingers over the headstamp every time if given a choice. Some cameras focus in fixed incremental distances, so it maybe necessary to move a little closer, or farther away to get a razor sharp photo. Be aware of your camera’s minimum focusing range and do not attempt to get closer than that.

Curt

That was already explained by JPeelen to him in a sarcastic way…but he may has not understand it…
PP

Here is another HS shotT76 final

Curt. Your method is the thing. here is what I did. Dug out my old circle template, found the hole that came up against the cartridge rim when the cartridge was inserted, placed a piece of white paper under the hole and cut it out with an exacto knife and then slide the cartridge thru the paper and template. The template holds the paper in place so cartridge can be setup and photoed from top. Thank you very much. I knew someone had to have a constructive solution.

Rookie,

However (from what you said above), while you captured a straight on, isolated image of the head of the cartridge, the photo is way underexposed. I don’t have the best computer setup in the world, but I cannot clearly read much on the headstamp in that photograph.

I know that like with regular cameras as opposed to those incorporated with cell phones, hand-held computers, etc., quality differs. However, my son, with his little machine, takes better general pictures than I do with more photographic experience than the years of his life to date, than I can do with my Nikon D80. Most of these camera built into other devices today are capable of taking well-focused and well-exposed, fairly closeup shots of small objects. It just takes a little care and practice. Most people when taking pictures of small objects hold the camera too far from the object. For headstamps, if the image in the view finder fills about 2/3 - 3/4 of the viewfinder, that is about right in my experience. Most of these new built in cameras will focus that close. My son takes good pictures of headstamps will standing at the counter of the gun shops in his area, and sends them to me to see if I need it (he is NOT a cartridge collector). They are always plenty good, for example, for posting on this forum.

Just practice a little. You will get it. Macro photography was new to me years ago, when you had to buy all kinds of special items - either expensive macro lenses, extension tubes, or even more than just that. I learned to use them and most everyone on this forum knows that I am about as comfortable and knowledgeable about modern technology as a Neanderthal man!

John Moss

The case base is dirty and yes it did not come out very good.

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The exposure problem can be fixed by using gray cardboard. Photo supply houses used to carry 18% gray boards that are the same reflectance as camera meters are calibrated to. In the US Navy there are two shades of gray, Haze Gray and Deck Gray. Deck Gray is the darker shade, and as the name implies, mostly used on decks. Deck gray is also very close to 18% gray and Photographer’s Mates were taught to meter off of it for accurate results. It was also taught that you could open up one stop and use Haze Gray to meter off of. That was back in the days of silver photography and manual cameras.

I don’t know what you will get if you go to a paint shop and ask for Deck Gray paint, but a can of Deck Gray spray paint might be a handy thing to have.