K&C 1891 8x52r

I am sceptical when I am told what I want to hear as I was told " this is one of those first cartridges in that rifle that you like" (Mosin Nagant). When I did a side by side they were similar except for the bullet of course. Gained from here made by Keller & Company of Austria. Year 1891. 12:00 Roman numerals or ? Measurements are:
Blt dia- .320
Nk dia- .354
Shld dia- .477
Hd dia- .491
Rd- .552
CL- 2.061
Oa- 3.012
Magnet does stick to bullet. Again pics taken with phone, hopefully ok.
Can some of y’all tell me more of design for what weapon, scarcity, and the highly respected knowledge of info that I hope to obtain and learn. IMAG5643|690x1226

It is an Austrian 8 x 52 R Mannlicher M. 90 made by Keller & Comp. Not a scarce cartridge, but not easy to find in good condition. Many examples have cracks in the neck and shoulder, so if you find one in good condition it is recommendable to pull the bullet, discard the powder and clean the case to avoid future cracks.

Thank you for straightening that out for me Fede ! Definitely multiple cracks at neck , but it does seem to want to move. I have read of aquarium sand for back fill for powder. As far as internal cleaning is the lemon juice, baking soda , soap and water, air dry sufficient and still recommended?

Philip

That cleaning method should work fine. Replacing the powder with sand or other substance is a personal choice, but in my opinion a pulled cartridge should be left empty.

OK so in your opinion how would I keep the projectile from falling into case?

Philip

I believe; a smear of white PVA glue around the base of the projectile, before insertion, will do the job. Wipe away any residual glue with a damp cloth and allow reasonable time to dry.

The cracking of the case neck has nothing to do with the powder, but with the absence of neck&shoulder anneal, and plain “season cracking” from seasonal temperature excursions on un-annealed, stressed brass.
I use vinegar (5%) and warm water to (a) kill primer and (b)
Clean out inside of case of any
Moisture induced corrosion.

Loctite is good to seat bullets,
“White glue” PVA releases acetic acid as it dries, and this will corrod brass (greenish verdigris).
DocAV

Hi Doc,
Can you Reference your comment that PVA releases acetic acid on drying?

I’ve looked at the MSDS sheets for PVA and I have not seen any mention of acetic acid release on drying.

PVA is used in the building trade and even in some pharmaceutical preparations. The MSDS mentions that with some preparations there can be a small amount of ammonia released on drying.

My comment related to using a; ‘smear,’ around the base of the projectile before insertion.

http://www.gohsenol.com/doc_e/uset/uset_08.shtml

http://www.pharmtech.com/pva-copolymer-new-coating-agent

Loctite is a Cyanoacrylate:

We have been using a smear of PVA, but would reconsider if there was evidence that it was detrimental. To date we have seen, in practice, no evidence of a corrosive effect. If corrosion were to occur it would be evident at the neck of the case. We are, however; always open minded.

Sam3

Dear Sam3,
My bad experience with PVA was years ago,(1989) when I first started making Movie Blanks.
I was using pistol cases (.44, IIRC) and using a light card wad
( business card thickness) over the powder, and assuring the seal with PVA…after a few days, I noted the clear dry PVA had gone green where it joined card and case wall…and left a crust of green on the case after firing…since then I don’t use PVA anywhere on brass cases…and have gone over to star crimp seal for blanks. NO extra residue out the barrel.
As to using Locktight there are so many varieties within the brand, that there should be a Brass friendly one…the few times I have used LT in a brass
mechanical application, I have had no problems.
Doc AV