Large caliber sectioning & restoration


#1

I recently finished a few shell projects that I wanted to share photos of.
I had gotton a real nice sectioned VT fuze a while ago. I sectioned one of my own 76mm/62 projectiles to match it. I have it displayed in a steel sprial wrapped 76mm/62 case .
I also recently restored a 5"/25 MK27 illumination projectile and a 5" MK15 common projectile. Both are U.S. Navy.







#2

NICE!!!

Steve


#3

Those are beautifully done! Serious question, you ever worry being in the PRNJ that if LE ever came into your house, or a neighbor freaked out and called LE you might be in some doo-doo?

I am not in a much better position being in the PRNY…its scary to think what the uneducated LE might do with a collection nowadays!


#4

Ditto Stevef and pzjgr…Very nice…and, please comment if you care to on pzjgr’s comment on PRNJ and LE…I’d like to know…Away out west in the Great State of Wyoming, we don’t have alot of the BS that some states have…Randy


#5

Actually it’s amazing to me how many people come into my home and never take any notice at all of my “collection”.
Occasionally someone will ask “What are those ?” only out of curiosity as to what they are.
Bill


#6

Another question for you…how do you do your stencilling/stampings? They look GREAT, and actually look like they are actually done with rubber stamp type rollers…do you have stamps made?

I have always done mine in a paint/mask style…I will paint the projectile or the proper portion of it with the proper lettering collor (for example for an AP type, I will spray the center section with white…) after it dries, I will take vinyl peel and stick letters/numbers, and lay out my “stamping”, then paint the whole projectile the overall color (for the AP example, black…). Then when dry, carefully peel off the stick-ons…

It produces satisfactory results, but not nearly as good as yours!

ETA Like the grooved 88…I have one like it, also an earlier non-pre-fragmented HE 88 round. Still no AP, but someday…


#7

Incredible Bill! I have always said you are one of the best “Ordnance Restorers” out their. Spectacular work!!!

Jason


#8

Really nice, I’d like to say you have spurred me on to collecting the big stuff but my wife (she who must be obeyed ) has just said no way… ;-)


#9

Thanks for the kind words in regards to the work.
I’ve bought “RibType” rubber stamps to do the marking.
They sell any font, size, style or character you may need.
They come in sets of individual characters so any stamp can be made up.
I also buy my ink from them as well.
Check out ribtype.com, you can buy from them direct.

Bill


#10

Hey Bill,

Thanks for the tip, that is a cool system, I will be giving them a call and ordering a set or two for myself!

Do you use that large rocker type hand stamper?


#11

I simply bought a ribbed sheet from RibType about 6" x 16" long.
I then cut different size pieces out of it and used rubber cement to glue it to pieces of 3/4" finish plywood cut to sizes that I would use as stamps.
I apply the ink with small foam throwaway paint rollers. Projectiles up to 5" I use the “roll method” which is to simply roll the projectile across the inked up stamp. 6"’ and larger projectiles are heavy enough to start crushing the rubber of the stamps so I roll the stamp onto the projectile. It took a bit of pratice before I got good results.
I use RibType sets “TG75” which are 3/8" high condensed font for US Navy markings. It’s a perfect match. For the German markings I bought a “TA14L” set which is upper & lower case letters and also numbers. A “TU78L” set is used for the larger “FES” type markings. The German roman numerals used for weight zones are also available to buy.
I bought multiple sets of everything to use with white, yellow, red & black inks and also supply enough characters.
I included more photos to help you see what I’m talking about.
I also cut and used stencils from a stencil cutting machine. The 8"/55 projectiles were marked this way. Just tape on the stencil and spray paint the color.
Bill






#12

Bill,
What shape are these typically in before yopu work on them, and do you mark them in any way to indicate to a future collector that they have been restored?


#13

Great question Guy, I know that there are quite a few different opinions in regards to this. I know some people who feel that the item shouldn’t be “restored” or changed at all. Others like myself see nothing bad in restoring an item which has little or no paint or markings on it. I would compare it to restoring an old rusted hulk of a collectable car. Restored cars ( and tanks ) are worth more to most collectors than original rusted out hulks.
I think what is key and important here is that when the item changes hands the truth about its current condition is known. There is of course a lot of room here for dishonesty. Intentionally putting marks to show the item does not have original markings is probably a good idea. I mysef have not yet done this. I do make sure to tell whoever I sell or trade an item to the complete history of the item as best I know it. Also I feel most collectors of large caliber ammunition would readily be able to tell upon examination that any of my restored shells were restored.
I included a before photo of those two 8"/55 projectiles. They weren’t much to look at, one was home to a small critter or a bird of some sort!
Bill


#14

I’m impressed with your work - I most likely would have disposed of them as being worthless in the condition they were in. So I guess it comes down to the fact that my action would have destroyed something that actually had a lot of potential in the right hands. Well done!


#15

Guy,

I agree 110%, spectacular!!!

Steve


#16

Bill,
The key to keeping the really large projectiles from mashing down and distorting the stamps is in the picture you posted showing the lettering being applied (‘Marking the Projectile’). The boards on either side of the stamp on which the projectile is rolled eliminate the problem, and can also help to ensure all letters of the stamp are applied evenly and that the stamp is straight. Of course, this could only be useful when stamping the straight sides of the projectile. The ogive would still present a problem, although in some cases, this might be comppensated for by raising one of the ‘rolling’ boards and placing the stamp at an angle.


#17

Bill,

Very well done. I have a few german 8,8 10,5 and 15 cm shells to restore, and needed a good way to apply the lettering. Thanks to this post i finally can order these stamps. Will post pictues when finished!