Security for a flat-file cabinet

Thought I would share a security measure for large flat-file cabinets that do not have a built-in lock. This method works best when the cabinet sits on the floor, and also has a small open space on the top over one row of handles to mount the L-bracket. Bolt cutters can defeat it of course, but it is just an added measure to delay & confuse any would-be burglar from throwing a drawer open to make a quick grab while in the mean time the alarm would be going off:

The long flat steel bar is dropped through the row of handles, and just has a hole drilled to accommodate the padlock going through it, and the L-bracket.

Did you secure the bar at the bottom?
Also, you might want to use smooth stove-head bolts at the top, keeping the nuts inside the box.

one thing nice about ammo is that you can have a few expensive rounds in a drawer full of relatively common stuff (as we probably all do) & unless the thief knows ammo he would probably grab the common stuff first, unless he just dumps the drawer(s) & then he has a heavy load to carry off.

I think my best security feature is the hernia any thief would get trying to haul my shooting ammo out first.

[quote=“jonnyc”]Did you secure the bar at the bottom?
Also, you might want to use smooth stove-head bolts at the top, keeping the nuts inside the box.[/quote]
It’s not secured at the bottom, but it can’t really go anywhere since it is snug inside every handle. Any amount of prying, cutting, or bending will take just as long to get around it, but of course 99% of burglars would be scared off by the alarm to begin with. I had hoped the bar would just prevent a quick grab. You can’t quite tell from the photo, but the hex-head bolts are rounded off, so a socket can’t get on them, and the L-bracket’s proximity makes using a wrench or pliers difficult.

Matt, a small “U” shaped bracket below the lowest drawer would make it almost 100% “unopenable” without tools and time.
Should be very easy to install, even when you will use blind rivets to attach it.

I understand what you mean now about the bottom bracket, in terms of somebody just pulling on the bottom drawer to bend the bar and access portions of mid-level or lower drawers, but the steel bar is much stiffer than it looks, and is very hard to bend given how flush it is to the length of vertical L-bracket it rests tightly against up high. I’ll probably add a U-bolt of some sort down there anyway though, thanks.

Very nice visualisation of my ideas how to secure my own cabinets. Let’s do it!

The weak link here is the Master lock. The laminated master locks are the simplest and easiest to bypass, rake, single pin pick, shim and almost any other method you can think of. I can open virtually any laminated Master or Master clone in seconds often faster than the key. Slight downward pressure on the lock body and a sharp tap on the side of the body of the lock will slide the internal latch laterally and the lock will pop open. worst locks made… They keep honest folks , honest. Great marketing but archaic design. People have paid me a lot of money over the years to open these locks that they lost the key for. Master makes a commercial line that is also a waste of money. Ask any locksmith. You can make them difficult to open by shooting them face on like the commercials. Shoot them from the top down they pop open.
Master owns American lock Co. and American makes good locks for sensible money. Usually carried by locksmiths. There is a Master line called I believe Pro Series The model 6230. These are made by American. They have security pins , hardened stainless bodies and a shackle that can only be defeated by grinding or using a rebar cutter. They are very difficult to pick and almost impossible to force and rekeyable and re-pinable. Don’t lose the key to this lock. Jonnyc’s idea of round head carriage bolt with the nuts inside is a smart idea. Another bad idea (among many) from Master is the 4 dial combination lock. Model 175 series. These can be decoded and bypassed in seconds. A friend is a locksmith that works for a Fed. law enforcement agency and he loves it when they have to make entry and find these locks.
The bad guys watch all the YouTube lock picking videos while doing time, they are fully aware of the easy padlocks and entry locks.

I hear you on the masterlock style lock, but again, I’m not likely to encounter a venerable prowler or anything, or even anyone who is intent on cartridge theft per-se. iI’s just a delay / detterant for what would be the most likely burglar in my area - a hapless drug addict looking for things to pawn. I figured if I put a real heavy duty padlock on, then the tin handles would just reveal themselves as the weak link that they are, and they could all be bolt-cut in under 60 seconds anyway.

If the bar is secured at both top and bottom, the handles (cut or not) are irrelevant.