Soviet 30 x 155B APHE markings


I have an (inert!) Soviet 30 x 155B BR APHE round. The case is headstamped:

“M” and some offset Cyrillic characters that look hand stamped at 12 O’Clock. “112” over “59” at 9 O’Clock, and “184” over “0” at 3 O’Clock.

I am familiar with the 184 marking, the Kazan region factory, which seems to be on alot of large calibre rounds.

Is “59” the date?

What do the other markings mean?

As for the projectile, it is marked “1-599-59 K” on the projectile body, and “5-M” on the driving band.

What do these markings mean?

Thanks in advance for any info.

  • @ Falcon: The headstamp markings are: “112” [lot number]; “59” [two digit date for the year of shell case manufacture 1959]; “184” [shell case maker’s code, Zelenodolsk Factory Associates]; “O” [stamp of the quality control department]. The Russian 30X155B shell case should have a percussion primer screw [marked in Cyrillic “KB-30” which means the “KV-30” type] with 3 wrench holes. The primer screw has a diameter of 16.5mm [0.649-inch] and it should be locked in place by a dimple. => Normally the projectile is stamped with these markings: explosive filler, projectile code number, projectile filling factory, lot and year filled, caliber and weight classification. The fuze should be stamped showing the model. Liviu 02/28/09 P.S. See on page 51 [IAA Journal issue # 455, May/June 2007] my photo and comments about “Russian 30mm Headstamps” [for the 30X155B and 30X165 rounds].


Thanks for the info.

The primer is missing, probably removd when the round was inerted.

By “stamped” on the projectile, do you mean ink stampings or stampings into the metal?

This projectile has no fuze, it is the AP type with the ballistic cap.

  • @ Falcon: If the primer screw is missing you should make one using a piece of brass [or aluminum] and a lathe. I assume it can be both ways: the projectile may be stamped with black ink markings or stampings into metal. => I advise you to get the NEW BOOK written by the IAA member Christian Koll from Linz / Austria, book about the Russian ammo which does give the answer to a lot of questions. Liviu 03/01/09


I may well make a new primer screw, I will have to find out the size and pitch of the thread first.

  • @ Falcon: Having the 30X155B shell case with no primer screw in place, allows you to see the thread size and you can measure everything. If you give me your e-mail, I can make a drawing for you showing how the primer looks with the 3 wrench holes and other details. Liviu 03/01/09



the stamped-in projectile markings “1-599-59 K” mean the following:

1 = metal alloy lot number
599 = code number of the plant that made the projectile
59 = year of manufacture of the projectile
K = initial letter of the surname of the in-plant acceptance chief

If you would like to know more about Soviet and Warsaw Pact ammunition markings, as well as the identity of all the manufacturer codes, please have a look in my book “SOVIET CANNON”. More information (table of contents and sample pages) can be found on my new web page:


For more information on that KV-30 primer (thread size, measurements, etc.), please refer to one of the Bulgarian manufacturers: … /1main.htm
Why would you like to lathe this primer from aluminium or brass? The original primer is made from steel.


Liviu: That’s what I meant, I can measure the size of the primer cavity in the case, as well as the threads.

Chris: I looked on your website first, that’s how I ID’d the projectile type.

What factory is “599”?

Is there any records of why “Mr. K” was?

Liviu suggested making the primer from aluminium or brass. Steel shouldn’t be a problem. What material is the primer cap itself made from?

  • @ Falcon: Having the empty hole where the primer screw should be, allows you to measure everything you need if you know how to do it and if you have the right tools. Liviu 03/02/09


I have access to bore micrometers and metric thread gauges, I shouldn’t have any trouble doing it.

  • @ Falcon: In this situation you have all the right tools. I suggested to use aluminum or brass because these materials are not too hard to work with but if you can use steel is OK. Liviu 03/03/09


I shouldn’t have any problem turning a bit of bright mild down to make a primer.

I am working on a replacement Aluminium nose cone for a British WW2 era No. 199 fuze at the moment. The one I have is heavily corroded from being in water.