Unknown 1 Pounder projectile


#1

I know that all of the grown-ups are at S.L.I.C.S. but let us see what those of you are left know about this projectile. It is steel, copper driving band and with a solid brass nose plug. The nose plug is unmarked except for three shallow grooves around it. This looks like a “pretend” fuze and may not be original to the shell body, it is very well made 'though. The steel was corroded but has responded well to the “toilet cleaner” treatment. There are remnants of what looks like nickel plating on the steel. A threaded hole in the steel is for a grub screw to secure the fuze. There are several markings on the shell but some are indistinct or partial marks; on the base it is stamped: “JAP”; on the side there is; “I I P R FS JA?/L 9/16”. Further round there is an"X" and other marks which could be “10”, “C” and a few others that I cannot read.

What have I got please?

gravelbelly


#2

I have no clue but it is very cool. Just curious, what is the “Toilet Cleaner” treatment?

Jason


#3

[quote=“APFSDS”]I have no clue but it is very cool. Just curious, what is the “Toilet Cleaner” treatment?

[/quote]

What ever you do don’t mention the “Toilet Cleaner” treatment :-)


#4

Jason

I can’t speak for Gravelbelly or Armourer and what they clean their potty with, (in fact, I don’t even want to think about it) but some of the bowl cleaners like CLR can do wonders for old rusty things such as 37mm projectiles.

Ray


#5

Thanks Ray! I was going crazy trying to figure out what they meant by that. It is nice learning something new every day.

Jason


#6

[quote=“APFSDS”]I have no clue but it is very cool. Just curious, what is the “Toilet Cleaner” treatment?

Jason[/quote]

Ahah! so there was somebody reading the forum after all. The cleaning fluid I referred to is the type advertised as “Limescale remover”, there are several brands here in the UK including Harpic and Toilet Duck, both are a vivid blue colour. The brand doesn’t matter but it has to be the limescale remover type, presumably some sort of acid. In engineering circles it has been used for many years to disolve the black heat scale found on hot rolled steel. If this scale is not removed before machining the steel it quickly destroys the tool. This cleaner will also remove phosphate, bluing etc. so beware. It leaves chrome and nickel untouched as far as I can see.

I use it to save rusty clips and chargers and to strip the rust off steel projectiles. It cannot get rid of corrosion pitting of course but will eat the rust out of the pits. So, if the object doesn’t retain any original finish then bringing it back to bright metal and stopping the degradation is still an improvement. I simply imerse the object in a plastic container and flood it with Harpic. Check it every so often for progress and turn/agitate so that the cleaner gets at all the rust. When done (I sometimes leave it for several hours) pick your precious object out of the cleaner and flush thoroughly with lots of hot water. Dry it and immediately give it a wipe/squirt of oil or WD40. This is necessary as the steel will be bare of all traces of oil and will react with the oxygen and start rusting within minutes.

Now, all of us have a few rusty bits and pieces lying around and toilet cleaner is cheap so give it a try, then report back on the results so that we can all learn.

But, more important than that, what is my projectile?

gravelbelly


#7

gravel

That sounds like the same stuff as CLR (Calcium/Lime/Rust). Modern chemicals are wonderous things. I keep bottles and cans of all different kinds on my garage shelf and test them on different materials, especially brass and copper. For example, I have noticed that some cartridges will clean up very nicely with paint remover but still leave a nice pleasant patina. On some it will clean them nice and shiney so you have to experiment a little before subjecting your $100 cartridges to a bath. Rifle bore cleaning solvents clean copper very well since they are made to remove copper fouling from a barrel.

But don’t try any of this in California. I wonder if California loos are always dirty??? :) :)

And I still don’t know what that projectile is. Like you, I suspect that the “fuse” is something that someone made just to complete the projectile body and make it look good.

Ray


#8

I also don’t know what the projectile is, but question whether that nose is something someone made to complete it. It looks too well made, so if the projectile was not made with that nose ‘fuse’ originally, than that someone who made it at least had to have some pretty good mechanical skills.

On the subject of cartridge cleaners, Ray and Gravelbelly, I hope your shelves have a small bottle of muriatic acid for those brass cases that are stained to the extrent that you are considering throwing them in the trash. I have been amazed at how some cartridges can be saved by a short immersion in a 50/50 acid and water solution. It usually takes less than a minute, followed by a thorough washing in clean water. While the cases have a pickeled look following this treatment, they can be brought back to a normal brass appearance with a little metal polish. Again, I do this only on cases that are stained to the extent that cleaning and polishing is not an issue.


#9

I think that muriatic acid is still too strong for cartridge cleaning,you have to be sure to remove all the acid leftovers.
I used citric acid but it has to be used at high concentration
You can also use acetic acid (winegar).
I usually use a metal polisher with very good results,and a liquid for copper polish that works fine on very deep stains.


#10

[quote=“gravelbelly”]I know that all of the grown-ups are at S.L.I.C.S. but let us see what those of you are left know about this projectile. It is steel, copper driving band and with a solid brass nose plug. The nose plug is unmarked except for three shallow grooves around it. This looks like a “pretend” fuze and may not be original to the shell body, it is very well made 'though. The steel was corroded but has responded well to the “toilet cleaner” treatment. There are remnants of what looks like nickel plating on the steel. A threaded hole in the steel is for a grub screw to secure the fuze. There are several markings on the shell but some are indistinct or partial marks; on the base it is stamped: “JAP”; on the side there is; “I I P R FS JA?/L 9/16”. Further round there is an"X" and other marks which could be “10”, “C” and a few others that I cannot read.

What have I got please?

gravelbelly[/quote]

Well, this one has sat here for nearly three months without any clues to the identity. So I will push it back up to the top of the pile, open a beer, and wait to see if some bright lad can leap forward with the answer.

gravelbelly


#11

gravelbelly,

Your projectile is a Mk.I HE for the British One Pounder Aircraft Cannon (37 x 70R).  The "fuze" is a fake, as the correct fuze for it is the No.131 Supersensitive PD Fuze.  

Jim


#12

[quote=“Jim O’Brien”]gravelbelly,

Your projectile is a Mk.I HE for the British One Pounder Aircraft Cannon (37 x 70R).  The "fuze" is a fake, as the correct fuze for it is the No.131 Supersensitive PD Fuze.  

Jim[/quote]

Thanks Jim,

That info is just what I needed.

Again my theory of getting a response by mentioning beer on this forum has worked. It is a litle more interesting that simply typing BTT I think anyway.

gravelbelly


#13

gravelbelly,

Check these pictures!

histavia21.net/Old-Munavia-2 … B-AVIA.htm

Rien


#14

[quote=“Western”]gravelbelly,

Check these pictures!

histavia21.net/Old-Munavia-2 … B-AVIA.htm

Rien[/quote]

Rein,

Thanks for that link to the pictures. How strange that they show the headstamp beautifully and views of the fuze but not the side view of the case, projectile or complete round. However, it shows that my “pretend fuze” is very well made, looks good but is the wrong shape.

gravelbelly


#15

gravelbelly,

There is a picture of the complete round , low quality.
histavia21.net/Old-Munavia-2 … /37-GB.htm

Rien