Vintage DWM Draw Sets

During my last visit to Oberndorf am Neckar, I was able to secure a number of DWM made monster boards and draw sets, used for promotional purposes. The sets had been stored in a damp environment for many years, some are relatively complete, others severely damaged.

Today I found some time to clean up the first set of the 7,9mm bullet production steps. Logo and name suggest this one was made somewhere in the late 1930s.

(note that the vertical blue lines are a result of the scanning process. They are not present on the board itself)

Other sets include a later, slightly post war, set which needs some additional work on the framing, as the original frame and glass were damaged and partially lost. Contents are in good shape, though. I will post them as I clean and restore them.

An interesting set shows the production steps of the stripper clip itself.


Very interesting. And a very good job of restoration.

I had never seen a stripper clip draw set before now. Thanks for sharing


The earlier BKIW-marked 1920s era draw set for the 7,9mm case, after some careful cleaning and restoring.
The cardboard backing has warped a bit due to the dampness, but overall it’s in good condition for its age.

Some ‘before’ images.

Great items and good you saved them from rotting away unattended and ignored by people who should have known better.

An outstanding restoration job. Congratulations.

P.S. Interesting that the draw (Zug) is called Streckung here and that the forming of the cup counts as the first draw.

If you have, during your restorations, the opportunity to weigh the lead core and the jacket at the last stage while still separated, I would be VERY interested to learn these figures.

No problem, I can pop them out and weigh them for you.

WOW ! !

A Fantastic job restoring these GREAT pieces of HISTORY.

Carry on…


As a collector of scrap iron I’m more interested that I’ve never seen a charger clip, presumably for the M’12 Steyr-Hahn, with this finish. Has anyone seen packets of DWM produced 9mm ammunition for this pistol and on these chargers?


The stripper clips are marked with P28-39 and, as indicated on the clip itself, they are zinc coated.

P28 still being the old codename for DWM in Karlsruhe.

Most of the dated displays (head stamps) show that they are from 1939. Head stamps on the 8x57 and 7x57 rounds all have a P28 S* x 39 date (x varying from 5,6,9). So it is safe to assume that the blue DWM displays (including the one with the stripper clips) were made in 1939.

The 7x57 case draw set.

Headstamps are IDWMI K where the ‘I’ is about half the size of the DWM letters.



The biggest challenge will be to restore an incomplete set, which is missing quite a few parts.
This is a 8x57 case, marked P28 S* x 39 (where x is a number of lots, including 5, 6 and 9).

There are 2 sets of which one is almost beyond rescue. Paper had deteriorated due to moisture and it is severely incomplete.

Additional note on the head stamp of the 7x57 round. What looked like tiny roman numerals ‘I’ turned out to be small date digits: 3 and 8, for 1938.

Vlim, great draw sets, thanks for sharing. The small symbols on the 7x57 headstamp are “M” letters, which is the year code for 1934.

Indeed. Hard to see, I need a guide dog :)

You may need a guide dog to see the “M” date code, but great job of restoration with these. I hope you will write an article about how you did it & submit it for publication in the IAA journal. We could all learn from your skills, talent & thinking.


From a sS Bullet.
The core weight is 156.4 Grain ( 10.134 Gram )
The last stage jacket 40.5 Grain ( 2.624 Gram )


The weights I got were:

Core: 2.7 Gram / 40.3 grains
Jacket: 2.72 Gram / 42 grains.

These were the production steps just before joining both. Which makes me think that the core on the display board is made from a light alloy rather than lead, in order to preserve its natural color better.

Restoration work was not that difficult.

I carefully removed all the items from the board, they are kept in place by copper wires and kan be slid out underneath.

Then I carefully cleaned the board with a moist sponge (just plain tap water), rinsing the sponge often to remove the dirt and grime from it, while avoiding getting the sponge too wet. Dabbed the boards dry with a paper towel afterwards.

The brass items were then cleaned by hand using a mild polishing agent, just enough to remove the tarnish. After that, the items were reattached to the board, some wires needed fixing, which was done using similar sized metal wire.

A nice touch are the horizontal brass rods (painted black) which are fastened under the items in order to keep them from falling out. Amazingly, all the items were originally fastened using 1 continuously strung brass wire.

451kr, Vlim,

thank you very much for the data.