What is the proper color green on this 40mm board?

#1

I want to “color” restore a board like this.

Red, black, white…no mystery.

But the proper green color code is a mystery to me.

Ideas ? (or a “universal code”)

(I presume I will need a custom mix and then the application method becomes a discussion…best to load a sprayer for such a small job?)

For the experts out there…do I polish the bare surfaces first…paint the colors…and spray lacquer all…or polish/tape/lacquer then add color (would the lacquer “mess” with my paint)

#2

Looks almost like a turquoise color, have you tried HOBBY LOBBY? They have a lot of small bottles of paint of various colors.

#3

As I recall the board we once had showed a green quite close to that one.

#4

I don’t know about colours, but, NICE display!

#5

I can’t help with the green color, but maybe some ideas on paint types might help. I assume by “lacquer” you are referring to a clear (transparent) finish meant to protect the bare metals from oxidation. It is best to use the same type of paint/solvent system (whether clear or colored) to avoid problems, such as lifting the previous finish (“messing” with the paint as you mentioned). For example, spraying lacquer over acrylic enamel will usually lift the enamel, ruining the finish.

Lacquer can be clear or colored (tinted) and another option would be acrylic enamel (also clear or tinted). There is also the “sheen” to think about (gloss, semi-gloss, satin, flat, etc.).

Probably the best two options would be lacquer (if still available) or acrylic enamel. It’s probably best to avoid water based coatings (like water-based spray enamel), since the clear coat may discolor the bare metals before it dries. Lacquer will generally be the easiest to spray in a smooth finish (due to the high solvent content - good for painting, bad for the environment).

If you use the same paint system as noted, it doesn’t matter what order things are sprayed. So you might do it to minimize masking.

A couple of options for spraying would be an air brush or if you search for “custom spray paint” you can find companies online that will mix a color to your specifications and load it into a conventional “rattle” can like you buy at the hardware or hobby store. Getting them a color sample might be difficult, though. Hopefully someone will chime in with the exact green to use.

I hope this helps a bit.

-Larry

#6

Google Testors paint, click on images. Wide variety of many colors.

#7

https://www.ralcolor.com/

https://www.w3schools.com/colors/colors_mixer.asp

Brian

#8

Ok fellas. Thanks. A few missed my quest as to suggesting where to find/buy paints or if you have seen a similar board (yes it’s cool)

BUT…I’m looking to know if there is any “official” color (? DOD) that anyone can peg to that green?

I figured Brian would pull out some DOD manual with a description of the board, stats and colors.

I will take a projo off my board and go to a paint store (big box) and have their computer scan the color and see what they can tell me.

My board has aged and my green is more “forest” than the blue green I have seen on other boards and photos (as attached)

I would be happy to not match the photo but to select shade that is DOD specs…if such specs exist

I will take the promos down to bare metal Polish the areas in need. Clear coat the polished areas. And then tape the proper color lines and paint away

I’m still all ears for a green color code. Where’s Fede 😉

Otherwise stay tuned as I will bring it to SLICS (if done 😆)

#9

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Projectile Color Chart, WW2 US Navy.pdf (555.0 KB)


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#10

Presuming that your computer screen actually shows you the correct colours. I have 2 comps and severn monitors, and all but three will show the same image with scewed colours.
It is better/safer to go to a paint store, or Home Depot/Lowes and get printed swatches to find the right colour.

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#11

Computers should do it at Lowes or HD

#12

I had two of the boards, mint in the original packing never opened and stored well. The green on the USN 40mm Bofors is really more of a forest green- grass green, not OD or turquoise.
One of the WW2 USN manuals has color chips of all the different colors used, but it is pretty hard to scan those and get them to reproduce properly. I think this was prior to adoption of MIL-STD color specifications.

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#13

The more I think about this JohnS is correct it was more of a forest green.

#14

P

What is the consensus of the best way to preserve (as long as reasonable) the buffed copper driving band and the unfinished steel to its tail ?

All of the projo “north” of the band will be primed and re-color coded.

I am considering a clear spray coat or should I use a paste wax?

The area to be colored will be taped off first

I tend to lean toward Larry’s approach with a spray clear coat before I add the colors

#15

The only suggestion I can make, coming from the viewpoint of a life long photographer, is that, when you are done, spray everything with a UV protectant spray.

At one of the Pro shops I was with, we did some testing of fading by spraying one side of a print and putting it where it was lit 24 hours, by both the sun and flourescent lights. Digital or chemical prints did not seem to have much difference, as long as they were on archival paper.

Daylight and flourescent are both very damaging to colours- red, brown, and green, seem to fade first, followed blues, yellows, and other shades, and blacks last, if memory serves.

Incandescent lighting will cause fading, although much slower, but it also scews the colour spectrum to the human eye.

We used satin, matt, and glossy finish sprays, and that will not matter, as long as it protected against UV spectrumlighting: Just personal preference and esthetic need for the decision.